In 1788, Dositej Obradović, a wandering Serbian scholar of the Enlightenment, described how Albanian villagers in Hormov welcomed him with warmth and generosity, revealing the spirit of Balkan life beyond religious or national boundaries. We also can find information about an Albanian monk named Shtjefen (Stepanj) and how Dositej tried to learn Albanian.

The Albanian monk

“Džima Luka replied: Since you are like that, we will know your name when we release you — if you run away from us.”

At that same time, all the Albanians heard that the monk Stepanj had gone with the Montenegrins against the Turks who had attacked them; and much was said and told about it. That summer passed, and we often received different rumors and reports about that little Stepanj.

I myself worked hard to learn the Albanian language; it was difficult, but I wanted to master it. I spoke with them about various things, especially about grain and their customs. In time, even the Albanians rejoiced, for they had learned to read and write, something they had not known before.”

“Ten days after our arrival, the elders of the town decided to send someone to Primet and to another in several places in some Albanian Agama for the sake of their common affairs; for the Hormovites have their own agreements and alliances with many chiefs and Pashas in Epirus and in Albanta. I ask permission to go with the priest Pic to inspect the places where he will pass. Go, monk, but you have nothing to see”.

Albanian hospitality

“It would be nice to live there, but we don’t have a single one; for we Albanians will not give ourselves to monks; we will keep you there if you want for three months, or three years, without spending a single penny: If you have mercy on us, stay with us for life; it will be as nice as if God had sent you from heaven to us.

Seers what we boys are! (all this is our first Greek speech) there are such of us, thank God! In Hormov up to two thousand, except for the old ones: You will see there old men of eighty years old, who go up the mountain under arms singing. They will disperse around the city on their business; Our quarters are near the school; we are going to visit the Teacher, named Eleftherios; an honest layman with his wife and family.

We tell him with whom we have come, and how he has called us to himself; but we fear that he will send us to a faraway country to unknown people; and he confirms to us about them the same things we have heard before. Come, then, in the name of God, at least tht we may see my beloved safely, and that we may part in health. “

Barosha castle

“Tomorrow we will climb the high mountains of Hormovit; we will find a beautiful large town of seven-storied houses, all stone buildings like castles; in Baroša alone there are about 50 springs, which, at the edge of the town, form a small river; this one, right near the Monastery, descends into a terribly steep side with such a roar that I myself thought, a man would never sleep there! And then I realized that there is no better sleep in the world: Sleeping, it seems that you are in heaven, and that there, you listen to some kind of pleasant and strange music. Those people, as if they had invited us even from Smyrna, to honor us!

Albanians from Hormovë

“On Easter Sunday, the travelers set sail with calm winds and arrive in Nauplion by Holy Thursday. From there they continue to Patras, travel by land through Corinth, and then take a large boat toward Epirus.

For twenty days they are delayed by contrary winds, and one of them, Maximus, becomes very ill at sea. After reaching Corfu, his condition slowly improves.

Some Albanians from Hormov see the sick man and kindly offer to take him to Argyrokastro (Gjirokastër) and then on to Ioannina. The narrator learns that traveling with the Hormovites is safe because they are respected and feared across Albania.

He joins them on mules to escort his friend and to see more of Albania. The group consists of about twenty armed men—“like lions.” After a few hours’ journey from Argyrokastro, they reach Hormov, whose people warmly invite them to their town, boasting: “You’re crazy if you don’t come! You’ve never seen such a place in the world, and never will again!” They describe their monastery of St. Nicholas, standing proudly at the edge of the town with ten monks living there.”

The unrest of 1783 between the Albanian Pashas

“After our departure, great unrest began in Albania between the local Pashas, in which the people of Hormov were inevitably drawn. Seeing that the situation might lead to disastrous consequences and a civil war might soon break out, I decided to leave before it ignited. They sent me off safely as far as Ioannina, from where I could then cross to my homeland (most likely under similar circumstances).

My faithful friend advised me and earnestly begged me not to cross into Turkish territory until peace was concluded, and until I saw the same Hormovites safely in Corfu; for the Delvino Pasha, through whose province I would have to pass, had joined in the conflict with the others.

A second letter came from the priest Dika, on behalf of the Hormovites, confirming the same news. They told me to whom I should direct my letter in Ioannina. They urged me to wait in Corfu for a few months until it became clear what would happen; and if afterwards I should not wish to return to them, they would send me my bag with the books I had left there.

By then, I already felt as much at home in Corfu as if I were in Banat; the Greek language no longer seemed foreign or difficult to me, but perfectly suitable for conversing with the Muses and Graces.”

Source

“Život i priključenija” (The Life and Adventures of Dositej Obradović), first published in 1783 (expanded 1788).